The length of the elastic stay will vary with the size of the shoulder pad and the wearer. The exact placement of the elastic stay depends on the design, but they are usually in line with the armscye. Since braided elastic narrows when stretched, it’s easier to put it into the tube and more comfortable to wear.
In these directions, you fi rst sew the shoulder pads to the garment; then, using a strip of selvedge, determine the stay length. Cut and sew the stays the desired length then apply them to the shoulder pads.
Determine The Stay Length:
1. Use a loose blindstitch to sew the shoulder pads into the garment at the shoulder seam, then sew them to the armscye seam.
2. Cut a piece of narrow selvedge about 12" long; this is longer than required. Measure and mark the length 8" on the strip.
3. Pin the mark at one end to the bottom of the shoulder pad in line with the stitching at the back armscye. Pin the mark at the other end to the shoulder pad at the front. (4) Try on the garment.
4. Re-pin as needed until the stay is comfortable. If it is too loose, make it tighter. It should be snug, but not tight. If it is too tight, release one end and repin. Remember, the fi nished stay will be elasticized, so it will be more comfortable.
5. Remove the garment and measure the length of the pinned selvedge. This is the fi nished length needed for the stay. The elastic will be this length plus 1/2"; the silk tubing for the elastic will be about 2" longer.
Make The Stay Tubing:
For this example we will use 8" as the fi nished length for the tubing.
1. To make two fi nished tubes 10" long, cut two pieces of lightweight silk 11/4" wide and 10" long. Cut two strips of soft, narrow braided elastic, 1/8" – 1/4" wide and 22" long. Mark the center of each strip of elastic.
2. With the silk right side up, place the center of the elastic 1/4" from one end of the silk. Stitch the elastic to the silk. (5)
3. Fold the silk over the elastic with right sides together. Begin stitching about 1/4" from the center (raw edge), across the elastic. Continue for about 1/2"; pivot. Continue stitching down the length of the tube, about an 1/8" from the elastic. (6)
TIP: Do not stretch the elastic or stitch through it.
4. Trim the seam allowance to a scant 1/8". Turn the silk tube right side out over the elastic. (7)
5. At the center, cut off the excess elastic including the stitching on the tube. Trim the elastic so it is 1/4" shorter than the tubing.
TIP: To prevent the elastic from getting lost inside the tube, I pin all layers together about 1" from the center before I cut off the seam.
6. Use short running stitches to sew through the tubing and elastic to secure the elastic permanently at the end.
7. Fold the end of the tubing over the elastic end and sew it fl at. (8)
8. Measure from the fi nished edge, and make a mark at 81/4" at the other end. Pin through all layers 1" from the end.
9. Fold the tubing back so you can trim the elastic 1/4".
10. Finish the end with short running stitches to secure the elastic; then fold the silk over the elastic end and sew it fl at.
11. Repeat all to make the second tubing for the opposite shoulder pad.
Attach the Stay
1. Position the stay on the shoulder pad so the stay laps the edge 1/4". (9)
TIP: Place the ends of the stay in line with the armscye seam. This is generally about 1/4" from the points on the shoulder pad.
2. Use small stitches to secure it permanently.
3. Repeat to sew the opposite end, and the second shoulder pad.