1. To add a pleat to a plain patch pocket, add 11/2” to center of pocket.
2. Fold pocket in half lengthwise. Place a pin 21/2” from top edge and 11/8” from bottom edge.
3. Sew 3/4” from fold, using a 2mm stitch length, to the first pin. Backstitch; baste between pins; backstitch; sew 2mm stitch length to bottom.
4. Press, centering pleat. Hold pleat in position with hand basting.
5. Finish upper edge of pocket with zigzagging, serging, or turning under 1/4” and edgestitching.
Quick Tip: Use strips of fusible web or a temporary adhesive to hold pocket in place.
6. Turn upper edge of pocket to right side along facing fold line. Stitch hem to pocket at sides and continue around pocket if you want a guide for turning under the 5/8” seam allowances. Cut upper corners diagonally.
7. Turn hem to inside. Press under 5/8” on sides and lower edge, folding in corners.
8. Stitch facing in place 11/4” from upper edge.
9. Pin pockets in place and stitch close to side and lower edge. You may also top-stitch 1/4” from edge. Pull out basting stitches in the pleat.
Tip: Add a flap if desired. A flap with a button will keep large pockets from sagging.
These instructions are from the new Palmer/Pletsch book "Pants for Real People" now available.