Fitting a Contour Waistline
A pattern’s curve may not match yours. To fit, try on the tissue.
1. If you do not have a full front and back pattern piece, make one so you can fit both sides of your body.
2. Pin the side seams together with seams sticking out.
3. Alter the pattern to fit your shape.
If your waist is larger than the pattern measurement, slash from the top to, but not through, the bottom in several places and spread. Have someone else help you. Tape over the slashes right to your body to hold the spread.
After altering, take the waistband off and place it on tissue. The tape will stick. Add more tape as necessary and trim away excess tissue.
If your waist is smaller than the pattern, slash from the top and lap the pattern pieces. Pin or tape.
If your high hip/tummy area is larger than the pattern, slash from the bottom and spread. Tape.
If your high hip/ stomach area is smaller than the pattern, but the waist fits, slash from the bottom up and lap. Pin or tape.
Sewing a Contour Waistband
1. Cut two front and back pieces for the band and its facing.
2. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of band with stable direction going around your body.
3. Pin waistband sections right sides together, with pins parallel to the edge in the seamline. Wrap band around your waist to make sure you like the fit. Adjust sides seams as necessary.
4. Sew the band side seams and press open.
5. Sew band to pants. Press seam allowances toward band.
6. Sew facing (which you cut from same altered pattern piece) to band.
7. Trim, turn and press. Turn under lower edge of facing and slipstitch in place.
Excerpted from Pants for Real People.