As we have said before we come in all different shapes and sizes so it is important that we select patterns and garments that complement these variations. For example a petite woman, less than 5' 4", would be totally overwhelmed by too long a jacket or a full flowing garment, bulky, heavy shoes or too much bold detail on an outfit. Scale therefore is of particular importance to the shorter woman. It is also relevant, though, to the large or taller woman. For example dainty or small accessories or a small handbag look insignificant on the larger woman, they should be chosen in keeping with her size.
Therefore accessories and design details need to be scaled down for the petite figure and accentuated for the larger figure. Vertical design details, that we have already discussed, are of particular importance for the fuller shorter figure. Unlike this figure type who has to buy her clothes and have them altered, the shorter fuller figure that sews has a distinct advantage. She is able to alter a pattern in length and width ensuring the perfect fit on completion. Her selection of patterns should emphasise the vertical line not only making her look taller but also more slender. They should be simply tailored with the minimum of details such as pockets etc. and the fabric selected should be of a subtle texture or soft drape preferably matte, not shiny. Too much obvious pattern on the fabric will make the figure appear larger.
Unity
Unity is an important element for home sewers, who, unlike their counterparts who purchase clothes, can alter the shape of pockets, hemlines, necklines etc. if they so wish. The unity of a design should always be respected however. As an example imagine a jacket with a curved shawl collar, curved hemline but square pockets. The unity is disrupted by the square pockets on an outfit with otherwise rounded design lines. Another example is an asymmetrical closing on a jacket with a centre seam on the skirt. It doesn’t work!
Every area of an outfit should reflect the same shape and be in harmony with each other. Components of an outfit should also not be in competition with each other and you should aim for just one focal point, a plain suit for example with a ruffled blouse. Buttons on a shirt or blouse should be plain if the buttons on a jacket are decorative otherwise both are demanding attention.
Finally tall, long legged woman can generally wear long “rule of thumb” jackets. Unity is disrupted however if the sleeve is ¾ length. It appears that she has grown out of the jacket or it has shrunk. The sleeves on the jacket are in unity if they are as close as possible to the length of the jacket hem.
Next month I will talk about our favourite subject fabric!!!!
Butterick B53429
Centre seamlines are unified in this co-ordinated outfit
Butterick B5423
The curved design lines are repeated throughout the design of the jacket