I wrote last time about fabrics generally, but this month I would like to be a little more specific and write about individual fabrics their characteristics, their care and respective sewing techniques.
Vogue Pattern V1110
Sandra Betzina designs for "real women". This great slimming jacket would be perfect in wool crepeOne of my favourite fabrics is wool, even though I live in Queensland where we only have a relatively short winter period, I must say that I have worn wool crepe suits for presentations on the warmest of days. By its very nature wool can be comfortable in all climates and many wool suits are worn by men irrespective of the ambient temperature. Wool is the most versatile of fabrics and we are blessed here in Australia to have some of the very finest sheep wools produced in the world. Wool is available in many different weights, weaves, textures and quality and can produce the heaviest to the sheerest of fabrics. Wool does not only come from sheep but also from goats most notably the Angora, which produces the luxurious cashmere, camels, llamas and the vicuna. Each of these animals produces wool of differing textures and feel.
The benefits of wool are that it is absorbent which makes it more comfortable to wear. Wool absorbs 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling clammy. It is warm in winter and can be cool in summer. It is easy to sew and is the fabric of choice for bespoke tailors. It resists soiling and stains can often be removed with a quick sponge. It is water as well as fire repellent. Creases are easily removed and garments can return to their natural shape with the help of steam. The downsides of sewing with wool are that unless they are washable wools they will need to be dry- cleaned. Wool can pill and when stored it will need to be protected from moths and silverfish.
As with most fabrics, when selecting wool, you will need to be mindful of your figure challengers. Heavy, bulky wools with lots of texture and bold patterns or checks will add size to the slimmest of figures. Your choice should be appropriate to your pattern selection. Take note too whether checks and stripes are suitable, and if so, the extra fabric you will require to match them. A rule of thumb guide is the nap fabric allowance on the back of the pattern envelope. As with all fabrics crush your intended purchase in your hand for a few seconds to see how it will crease when made up. Good quality fabrics will generally spring back with few or no wrinkles. Cheaper woollen fabrics are often more loosely woven so carefully check the weave. A loosely woven fabric will be more inclined to “bag” and not wear so well.
There are in fact two basic types of wool fabric, one is the one we have discussed above the other is wool worsted. Woollens are soft with a textured finish whereas worsteds are smooth. If you hold woollen fabric up by one corner it will fall in soft bias folds but worsted fabric will fall into a cone shape. Wool worsteds are ideal for business suits and crease and press well. They are longer wearing but can be inclined to shine in areas of most wear. Worsted is excellent for pleated garments.
I am often asked how you can tell the right side of woollen fabric. It is almost always folded right sides together on the fabric bolt. The selvedge edge is smoother on the right side and the fabric itself has fewer knots and slubs. Ultimately though it is the side you prefer! If both sides look the same mark the right side with magic tape or tailors chalk when you are cutting out to avoid shading. Also use the nap layout on the pattern for the same reason. In heavier wools grade the seams and darts to avoid bulk. For lightweight wools use a size 60 to 70 needle and for heavier wools an 80 to 90. Use a steam iron and a pressing cloth when pressing wool for the best results.
I had intended to write about another of Australia’s great products, cotton in this article but it will have to wait until next time. Happy sewing!