Last month we discussed vertical and horizontal design lines and how much they affected how we look in the garments we sew. There is however other design lines to consider. Diagonal design lines, for example, keep the eye moving over the curves of the body and create a softening effect. They can be very flattering particularly to the fuller figure. Diagonal lines are angles and angles are always slimming. It does depend however how deep the diagonal is, a shallow diagonal line is more representative of a horizontal and will not complement a figure as well as a deep diagonal.
A V neckline or a soft V, are necklines I often recommend for the fuller figure or the full busted. They direct attention to the face. One of my favourite jackets for larger ladies is the V neck collarless jacket with a one button closure and cut away hemline. With a good shoulder line this jacket creates a wedge shape. The surplice (crossover) swimsuit is undoubtedly one of the most popular designs and has remained in the inventory of swimsuit manufacturers for many years changing only marginally as fashion dictates. Diagonal designs in fabrics is also figure flattering or try plaids and stripes cut on the bias for the same effect. Caution though should be taken when cutting garments on the bias as they are more inclined to hug the body and show every lump and bump. A less clingy pattern style should be selected if you decide to cut your fabric this way.
Round design lines are undoubtedly soft and feminine. One only has to look at the flounces and frills on a dress or the ruffle at the neckline of a shirt. The eye will focus on the romance of the ruffle and direct attention to the face. A woman’s natural body shape tends to be curved and round design lines will enhance and soften a thin or angular silhouette. Having said that you won’t be surprised if I now say “round adds pounds”! Too many curved design lines in a garment will over emphasise a full figure. Once again the direction of a curve is important. An upward curve at the hem of a shirt towards the side seams, for example, will minimise a full stomach as will a shirt tucked into a waistband and “bloused” out. Puff sleeves will add dimension to a full bust and sleeves that blouse out at the wrist will visually increase the size of the hips. A shawl collar is not the best choice for the fuller figure and cowl necklines emphasise a full bust.
It is wise to select fabrics carefully too as large round designs in the fabric add size. Examples would be large swirls, paisley and polka dots. A round face should avoid round hairstyles such as a short bob and round accessories. Remember “round as pounds” and angles slim.
Next month I will talk about scale and an area important for the home sewer, unity in design.