I wrote last time about fabrics generally, but this month I would like to be a little more specific and write about individual fabrics their characteristics, their care and respective sewing techniques.

If I have a real passion in life it is undoubtedly my love of fabric. Like most other home sewers I have an enormous fabric stash. I am a true fabricaholic! Some of this fabric I will make up, and some of it I may keep because it was loved when it was purchased and I just can’t bear to throw it away. When I did promotions in three States for all the Spotlight Stores my husband threw up his hands in despair when I spotted yet another fabric that took my eye.

As we have said before we come in all different shapes and sizes so it is important that we select patterns and garments that complement these variations. For example a petite woman, less than 5' 4", would be totally overwhelmed by too long a jacket or a full flowing garment, bulky, heavy shoes or too much bold detail on an outfit. Scale therefore is of particular importance to the shorter woman. It is also relevant, though, to the large or taller woman. For example dainty or small accessories or a small handbag look insignificant on the larger woman, they should be chosen in keeping with her size.

Last month we discussed vertical and horizontal design lines and how much they affected how we look in the garments we sew. There is however other design lines to consider. Diagonal design lines, for example, keep the eye moving over the curves of the body and create a softening effect. They can be very flattering particularly to the fuller figure. Diagonal lines are angles and angles are always slimming. It does depend however how deep the diagonal is, a shallow diagonal line is more representative of a horizontal and will not complement a figure as well as a deep diagonal.

The basics of clothing design are ultimately what will decide whether you look good in a garment that you have made or whether it is a complete disaster relegated to the scrap material pile. So we need to select our patterns with as much knowledge as possible to ensure that once we have made our outfit it looks and indeed feels perfect for us. Therefore our objective is to select a pattern with care, keeping in mind a flattering silhouette a complimentary neckline, sleeve and skirt length and material that is of the most becoming colour and hand (drape).

This is such an easy question to answer. Which boutique or clothing store would have the selection of styles that I can find in the McCalls, Butterick and Vogue pattern catalogues? What’s more, I can make these styles in the fabric of my choice and in the colour that is most flattering to me. I can select the correct size and if necessary can alter to fit perfectly. More generous seam allowances can be added to cope with fluctuations in weight (manufacturers tend to make them skimpy). I can bask in the satisfaction gained from producing an outfit that attracts compliments. Most importantly I can sew at a fraction of the cost that I could buy the equivalent garment in ready to wear. How do I know all this, because I have been sewing since I made my Mum a satin pyjama case when I was six years old!